French Country comes to Paris

"How can anyone govern a country with more than 500 cheeses?" Charles de Gaulle is said to have asked in exasperation at a particularly difficult political moment. The answer for everyone hoping to do so? Press the flesh--that is, the flesh of cows, horses, sheep, goats, mules...and voters, as French President Nicholas Sarkozy was trying to do on February 23 opening day--at the Salon d'Agriculture. In this 9 day-long event, hundreds of varieties of farm animals and thousands of farm products descend with their proprietors to the expo halls at the Porte de Versailles, a confusing conglomeration of buildings. But even these impersonal spaces are brought to life during...dare we call it a farm expo? If you're thinking of visiting and you really want to get more than a superficial glimpse into French culture, I can't recommend a better time to come than during the Salon d'Agriculture in late winter. Air fares are at their cheapest, and love of terroir at a fever pitch.